Finding My Place in the Serengeti

You know things are going quite well when you wake up, step outside of your tent, and find this waiting for you.


We packed up and left Olduvai, however we would be returning in another day. Today we were heading in to the Serengeti, again our permit would only be good for 24 hours and Sadai recommended we enter around 11am to give us the best experience. So far he had been right about everything else so it sounded like a great plan.


With time to kill this morning he suggested we visit a local Maasai village so we stopped at one, however the first village was not in to greeting us, so we continued on until we found one that would allow us in to their homes. The Maasai are a semi-nomadic people who live in Tanzania and Kenya, some have seen such things as cars and white people, others have not. The village we stopped at was familiar with such things.


They sang for us and their throaty chants were quite amazing. Unfortunately it does not appear that iTunes caries any of their top ten hits.


These guys can jump.


Their houses are quite small as they move around the land often, and why create something fancy if you are going to leave in 3 months.


Inside it was quite tight with a very interesting smell, these houses are made from whatever they can find, and sometimes they find cow dung.






As we walked around the village they did not seem to mind the camera.






We then peeked in on their school, this was the kindergarten class.


It was an amazing visit and added to the countless experiences that I would never forget on this journey. I was honored that they opened their village to us and we thanked them. It was now time to head to the Serengeti.


The road was long but we were making progress. You really start to get the feeling of isolation and being cut off from everything. Serengeti actually comes from the Maasai and means “endless plain”, they sure got the name right.


We first stumbled upon some lions.


This was the first full grown male we saw.


Along with the kids.


An outcast watched from the distance.


Then we saw some gazelle.


A lion and a gazelle, I wonder if that lion is hungry?


OK, that was just about the coolest thing I have ever seen. Turns out he was hungry, and so continues the circle of life.




The rest of the herd seemed to watch in disbelief.


It walked right past the truck as if we were not even there. I wonder how much more time before lunch.


So we continued on. I have no idea how Sadai found his way through this place, all I saw was an endless maze of roads covering roughly 10,000 square miles that makes up the Serengeti.


Again we saw everything, including my favorite, giraffes.


More hippos who all refused to get out of the water.


And a number of more lions.








We then saw a cheetah for the first time.




And then saw a leopard for the first time as well. I’m really working through my check list nicely today.


We even spotted a crocodile.


We saw more then I would have ever guessed and it was not over. We started making our way to Ronjo camp with in the Serengeti, where we would be staying for the night. As we approach Ronjo I was amazed that there were giraffes so close to the camp, boy would I soon be in for a surprise.




We got to Ronjo and were briefed on our stay. A Maasai warrior will escort you to your tent after dinner and do not leave your tent until 6:30 the next morning after the sun comes up. We were told that the animals are all around here, and a quick glance of the numerous droppings all around the camp site seemed to indicate this was in fact the case. Ben asked “What should we do if we see a lion?” and he replied “Do whatever your common sense tells you, if you want to cry, then cry, if you want to run, then run.” I guess the more appropriate question would have been “What do you do when you seen a lion in the camp?” After the briefing we checked out our tent, right here in the middle of the Serengeti, how can this all be real, how can I be so fortunate.


The tents were great and I know I said this for Olduvai, but Ronjo was one of the coolest places that I have ever stayed in my life. Plus they too came around with a sack of hot water for the shower and we repeated the same procedure as before.


Our tent included one very important item, this whistle. We were told that if things take a turn for the worse and something gets in our tent at night to blow the whistle and they would come help. That sounded like a made up answer to me, it seemed more like it would be used to warn the other 9 tents not to expect us for breakfast in the morning.


Trick or treat. OK the shorts and shirt are mine but the hat was in fact Ben’s.


So we sat out front of our tent sipping on Kilimanjaro beer and watched animals walk right in front of us. I felt like this was where I belonged, I found my place, and again everything was right in the world at this moment.


A giraffe. And then I got my second call from a client on the satellite phone, but if I have to do a little work I could not think of a better place to do it, I guess I am not as isolated as I had originally thought.


Some zebra. Then the lawyer in Ben came out and he said “Where in the US could you ever do anything even close to this?” He was right, if it ever was attempted, some sappy American might get a mosquito bite, bring a lawsuit, and shut the whole place down. Boy it sure is nice to be in Africa.


Then I remembered that I never asked my follow up question about what to do when you see lions, where is that whistle?


After a quick shower we headed to the fire pit which was about to be lite, fire should keep everything away right?


We then headed to dinner, which again was amazing. Nine other tents and one was occupied with another former Microsoft employee, so we talked a little shop, but then I realized what a waste of time, we are in the middle of the Serengeti, and quickly the conversation changed.


I have slept in a lot of crazy places and heard a lot of strange sounds, but none can hold a candle to what I heard tonight. I did not know if I should be curious or if I should hide under the covers. African was not just wild and untamed, but it was proving to be very emotional, giving me so many images, so many experiences, and soon, so many memories that will never be lost. So if you are willing to go as far as Olduvai, and still have that sense of adventure, then you have to go a little farther, and make a stop at Ronjo camp, it can tell you things that I can not.